GERMANy: Berlin

Berlin is an incredible city where history leaps from the pages and appears right before your eyes. A city once divided has now become the center of arts and culture in Europe. Everyone should visit Berlin to understand its historical significance, experience the culture, and remember the innocent people who lost their lives on this hollowed ground. 

After living in Berlin for three years and showing the city to many of our friends and family, here are some of our favorite Berlin highlights that are not to be missed. 

SEE

Berlin Wall Memorial: If possible, visit this memorial first to better understand the Berlin Wall and how the city was divided. A large section of  the wall still remains, as well as a portion of with the inner wall, no mans land, and guard tower. If you visit sometime between Tuesday and Sunday, you can watch a short film inside the Visitor's Center, which provides a great introduction to the history of the Berlin Wall. 

East Side Gallery: This gallery consists of several murals painted onto a mile-long strip of the Berlin Wall. Two especially noteworthy pieces are Fraternal Kiss and cartoon heads by Thierry Noir. You can usually get lucky and find street parking right in front of this gallery but if not, try the new underground parking garage across the street at the Mercedes-Benz Arena. 

Checkpoint Charlie: No visit to Berlin is complete without a visit to Checkpoint Charlie. Here you will find the famous "You Are Leaving The American Sector" sign , a fantastic museum that gives excellent information about the Berlin Wall, what life was like for those living in East Germany, and personal stories of those who were smuggled across the border to reach freedom. Worth a couple euros to take a photo with the men dressed as soldiers, standing in front of the Checkpoint shack (important to note that this is actually a replica. The original can be found at the Allied Museum located in an old US Army theater, 30 minutes away from the center of Berlin). 

Museum Island: Several beautiful museums located in the heart of Berlin, the island itself is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Click the link to read more about the various museums located here. My personal favorite is the Neues Museum which houses incredible Egyptian artifacts, including the famous bust of Queen Nefertiti. (Fun fact: When I was in Cairo, I asked my friends where we could see Nefertiti. Imagine my surprise when they said Berlin, the city where we've all lived for years! Ha!) 

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe: Beautiful, somber memorial located behind the US Embassy and near the Brandenburg Gate. When political leaders visit Berlin (like Kate Middleton and Ivanka Trump), they often pay their respects at this memorial. 

Brandenburg Gate: Arguably the most famous Berlin icon, the gate is located right at the border of where the Berlin Wall used to stand. President Ronald Regan stood outside this gate when he made his famous speech urging Mikhail Gorbachev to "Tear down this wall!". If you look carefully in the streets behind the Gate, you will see bricks in the road marking where the Wall once stood. This is one of those moments in Berlin when history stops being just words in a book and become real life. 

SHOP

Checkpoint Charlie Museum Gift Shop: Best place to find Berlin-specific souvenirs including reproductions of the "You Are Leaving The American Sector" sign, "Ich bin ein Berliner" mugs with John F. Kennedy's image, chips of rock from the original Berlin Wall (jury is still out on whether these rocks are actually authentic, but they do look super cool), and many more. 

Kathe Wolfhart: Beautiful Christmas shop full of german-made handicrafts like nutcrackers, ornaments, nativities, and smokers. If you'll be in Germany for more than a few days, consider taking a day trip to Seiffen, where you will find many of the same products sold for about 30-40% cheaper. However, here is my hot shopping tip for Kathe Wolfhart: this store ships all around the world at very decent rates. For example, they charge 60 Euro to send a large, flat rate box to the United States *BUT* this also includes insurance for any damages that may occur in transit. ALSO! If you choose to have your good shipped, Kathe will refund your VAT tax ON THE SPOT. This is a huge savings, around 20% of your purchase. Remember that the box can hold many different items for the flat rate price of 60 Euro. Such a great deal and one that I don't find many people know about! 

Mall of Berlin: A popular attraction for tourists, this mall has several common stores like H&M and Zara, as well as grocery stores and a pharmacy. Check out the Nike Store for Berlin-branded Nike gear and the Playmobil store for unique Playmobil toys at discounted prices. For one Euro, you can also create your own Playmobil figure! 

KaDeWe: Home to many luxury brand stores, this bougie department store is a one stop shop if you're interested in taking advantage of the lower Euro prices and VAT tax refunds. Check out my travel souvenirs guide for more information on how you can save 30-40% by purchasing luxury goods in Europe instead of in the States. 

Ritter Sport: Fantastic chocolate shop where you can make your own chocolate bar, try new flavors unique to this location (Lemon Waffle White Chocolate bar, say my name!), and buy Ritter Sport memorabilia like totes bags notebooks. If you want to give your tired feet a rest from walking, head upstairs to the Ritter Sport cafe for chocolate fondue and Marzipan-flavored hot chocolate. 

STAY

Lots of great lodging options in the heart of Berlin. Check out the Berlin Marriott at Potsdamer Platz or if you're feeling particularly bougie, book a room at the Hotel Adlon for spectacular views of the Brandenburg Gate.

SAVOR

Lunch at the Reichtag: book a table at the restaurant Käfer for the best, 360 degree views of Berlin. Reservations must be made in advance as the restaurant is located on top of the Berlin Parliament and passport information is needed in order to enter the building. 

Sixteen Bites: My favorite restaurant in Berlin! Delicious Mexican food similar to Chipotle (but better!) and owned by incredible people. The fresh lemonades are a favorite! 

Augustiner: If you're in the mood for a traditional German meal, try the schnitzel at Augustiner. Super authentic and year round Oktoberfest-vibe.

Standard Pizza: Per of Berlin Food Stories names Standard as the "Best Restaurant in Berlin" and after eatting their incredible pizza many times, I'd have to agree. 

Taverna Ousies: Delicious Greek restaurant! My favorite dishes are: 

#20: grilled halloumi 

#86: zucchini cheese balls

#101: roasted eggplant with potato puree

#34: grilled meatballs

#66: calamari

#150: loukoumades with honey and cinnamon

Döner kebab is a Berlin staple and the best can be found at Rüyam.

Mall of Berlin Foodcourt: It sounds silly, but the food court at the Mall of Berlin is incredible and has many different international food options. Even the pickiest eaters in the group will find something they like, even if that something is McDonalds. Ha! 

Street Food Thursday at Markthalle Neun: Every Thursday from 5:00-10:00pm, you will find all of Berlin's best street food vendors cooking up their signature dishes at the historic Markthalle Neun. Be aware that these events can be crazy packed full of people, but try to be patient and usually tables open up. If you're visiting with kids, look for a table near the small indoor playground. While Thursday nights are a party, the Market is quite slow during the weekdays. Make sure to check the calendar on their website for upcoming events.  

SEE

In the middle of the town is the famous Seiffen church. If you’ve shopped for German souvenirs before, chances are that you’ve already seen miniature versions of the church, along with the accompanying choir boys. Seeing the church in real life helps to make those souvenirs even more memorable.

Erzgebirgisches Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum): I visited Seiffen several times before discovering this museum, which is such a shame because it is SO WELL DONE! Visits to the museum begin with a film (available in several different languages, including English) explaining the history of Seiffen. After the film, you move into the exhibit rooms centered around a giant pyramid. The exhibits contain thousands of vintage Seiffen products which will completely take your breath away, especially if you love Seiffen like I do. I was shocked and delighted to learn that many of the products used today are modeled after the exact same patterns and items offered one hundred years ago, including the boxed packaging. Despite the collections on display, this museum is kid-friendly with play areas and touchable wooden toys throughout the museum. It is located in the center of town, right across the street from the Glässer workshop. 

SHOP

Seiffen is the heart of production of wooden German handicrafts. There are many workshops and stores located along the Erzgebirge mountains, but here are a few of my favorite, not-to-miss shops. I recommend parking at the parking lot located at Jahnstraße 2, 09548 and walking to the shops from there. The list below is organized by the best route to follow through town. Please keep in mind that most shops close early, around 5:00pm. 

Glück auf Haus: Located across from the large parking lot, this shop tends to be one of the best priced in the area. They have a great selection of everything and can provide Global Blue tax free receipts. 

Seiffener Volkskunst: This shop is located down the stairs from the other side of the parking lot. Their speciality is nutcrackers and if you visit on a weekday, you can actually see the artists making the nutcrackers in the workshop! They offer a variety of different styles and may be one of the only shops that offer nutcrackers in the largest sizes. Don’t miss the sale section where items with minor blemishes reside. 

Schwibboggen Haus: The red building! Schwibbogen’s are the decorative arches, often with candles or lights around the top. This shop has a whole room of them, along with a smaller selection of smokers and other decorative items. This shop also sells wooden stands for about €5 a piece if you want to add height to your schwibbogen. Most importantly, if you’re worried about fitting the box into your suitcase, this shop ships for an incredibly reasonable rate (shipping fee is around €30 to the USA and arrives within 1-2 weeks). AND if you ship, they won’t charge you the VAT tax which basically makes the shipping free.

Seiffener Haus: The green building, owned by the same people next door. This shop has everything but has enough open space that it’s not totally overwhelming. I always find something here and the shopkeepers in both stores are very kind. 

Altes Handleshaus: This shop has everything you need and is organized very well. Take photos of the labels on pieces you’d like to purchase and show it to the shopkeeper at the front desk. My favorite items to buy from here are the Seiffener miniature figures for my Christmas town. 

Seiffener Pyramidenhaus: Great selection of pyramids but unfortunately they do not ship. Be aware that the boxes they use are HUGE and will take creative maneuvering to fit into your suitcase. If anything, this shop is a great picture spot with the giant angel and bergmann in the front. 

Richard Glässer: This shop is the most gorgeous showroom offering everything you could ever want. And bonus! They also ship to the states and will not charge the VAT tax if you choose to do so. Not the cheapest shop but the pieces are gorgeous. For a nominal fee, you can walk through the workshop and see the artists carving, painting, and assembling wood creations! So cool to see how these products are created in-house and truly authentic pieces. 

Bergleutehaus: Owned by the same family that owns Glück auf Haus, this shop is also reasonably priced and offers a great selection of everything. If you’re looking for an angel and bergmann set, this is the place to go as they have a wall full of them. If you opt for a set without lights, make sure to purchase candles in the shop as it can be quite difficult to find the right fitting size once you leave.

Altes Drehwerk: Another gorgeous showroom with a vast selection of unique nutcrackers.

STAY

I’ve never stayed in Seiffen, as we usually make a day trip or combine it with a Polish Pottery shopping trip with a night in Dresden. However, the Buntes Haus Hotel seems to be a nice lodging option and is located in the middle of town. Super convenient to bring bags back to the room in between shops, wink.

SAVOR

There are not many dining options in this town, but I usually eat at the Buntes Haus Hotel. The restaurant offers traditional German food and is quite delicious, but do note that it often takes a while for the food to be served. I would recommend eating a big breakfast before coming to Seiffen and then eating a late lunch/early dinner here after you’ve finished shopping. They also have a kids menu for small servings of pasta and schnitzel.